Our plans for the Big Drive began even before we moved to Mozambique in 2011, in part because of all the countries we collectively wanted to visit during our time in Africa, my top choice was Ethiopia (for the mountains), while Sam’s was Egypt (for the pyramids). Don logically concluded that we should join it all up by road.
Ethiopia has only 4% of Africa’s landmass, but contains 50% of the continent’s land above 2000m, and almost 80% of the land above 3000m. The Ethiopian Highlands are often called the “Roof of Africa”. During our two weeks in country we were up above 3000m in three different places.
Ethiopia has only 4% of Africa’s landmass, but contains 50% of the continent’s land above 2000m, and almost 80% of the land above 3000m. The Ethiopian Highlands are often called the “Roof of Africa”. During our two weeks in country we were up above 3000m in three different places.
The first place was the Guassa Community Conservation Area, about five hours drive north-west of Addis Ababa. Our friends Jeff and Celeste recommended the area, so Don and I went off on our own while Sam stayed back to play with their boys for another couple of days. It felt like being in the Scottish highlands, which made me feel particularly at home, though also a bit breathless, as we went on a hike up to about 3400m (the top of the hill in the photo below right). The conservation area was created in part to protect the local grass, which is used for various purposes including constructing concrete walls and thatch roofs of houses, and which has a high market value. Another reason was habitat protection for endemic mountain species. We saw loads of Gelada baboons (which only exist in Ethiopia), but unfortunately no Ethiopian wolves (also endemic, and endangered). Highly recommended for anyone in or visiting Ethiopia.
The second place was at the incredible Hudad Lodge. Hudad is an eco-lodge reached via a fabulous 10km hike out of (and 800m up from) Lalibela. We hired a mule to carry our bags (and Sam part of the way), which was definitely useful as the walk took nearly three hours. You can drive about halfway up if this sounds too strenuous, though for me the walk was part of the point. The Lodge was worth the effort. A truly spectacular location, on a high plateau surrounded on all sides by cliffs, giving 360° vistas to amaze the senses (and to seriously worry anyone with a fear of heights). Accommodation is in simple traditional round stone huts called tukuls, with separate eco-toilets. Gelada baboons were again in abundance, keeping the grass short and being great photography subjects. The food was simple but fantastic, and by this time next year should be served in a new restaurant being built to take advantage of the sunset views over Lalibela. Again highly recommended.
Our third foray was into the Simian Mountains National Park. We had planned a two-night stay with a big hike in the middle, but had to cancel plans as the rain moved in, wrapping the mountains in cloud, wiping out the views, and turning the roads into quagmires. The latter element did provide some entertainment, however, as we watched people pulling trucks through the muck at a particularly bad spot in the road a few km before our designated campsite (Sankabar). This was the point at which we decided to turn around, but not before capturing some of the antics on video. We all agreed it would be good to come back outside the rainy period so we could do a proper hike and get a sighting of the elusive Ethiopian wolf (and the less elusive but also unseen by us Walida Ibex, the sure-footed Simian mountain goat.)
Anyone wanting more views of the Ethiopian highlands should watch the fabulous "Fire" episode of the great BBC documentary The Great Rift: Africa's Wild Heart. That's what I wanted my photographs to look like!! The other episodes are also interesting but cover different parts of the Rift Valley. We have been following or moving in and out of the Great Rift Valley since Malawi (as well as visiting the bottom end of it during our time in Mozambique). At Ethiopia we bade goodbye to this faithful geological companion in order to pick up another one that will stay with us to the end: the amazing Nile River. Next up: travelling up the Nile from the Blue Nile source to Lake Nasser / Lake Nubia.